Where to get a good deal on an engine core

[Slayer]

As the title says... anyone now where I get a good deal on a good engine for rebuilding? Looking at a SBC 350 and TH350 trans. Yes I know, like all other t buckets. I'd like to be different and use a BMW V10 but my budget will not support such things.

[Bill Cleveland]

This is where a network of friends can come in handy. Somebody knows somebody somewhere that has an old 350 (or any other small block) lying around that's probably rebuildable. Check the local auto parts stores and ask around. Mine came from a friend's tool shed - it was free if I would haul it away! And after cleaning up, all it needed was a good cylinder hone. A rebuild kit from Northern Auto Parts and I was in business. And don't be afraid of a 305, or even 307. They can be coaxed into producing enough HP to move a bucket down the road smartly.
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[Slayer]

This is where a network of friends can come in handy. Somebody knows somebody somewhere that has an old 350 (or any other small block) lying around that's probably rebuildable. Check the local auto parts stores and ask around. Mine came from a friend's tool shed - it was free if I would haul it away! And after cleaning up, all it needed was a good cylinder hone. A rebuild kit from Northern Auto Parts and I was in business. And don't be afraid of a 305, or even 307. They can be coaxed into producing enough HP to move a bucket down the road smartly.

A network is something I don't have but will work on establishing. I've looked at a few websites like U-Pull-It but as I'm not a V8 man I'm not sure what I'm looking for, and I'm unable to pull an engine situated in a yard. After research I've found the SBC 350 with casting # ending in 0010 (and 010, 020 near the timing cover) is the good block. Don't really need anything other than the block since I'll probably replace just about everything.

You got a good deal with yours, great price.

[Indycars]

I have a 4 bolt main, 350 cuin SBC that has been bored .060 inches and is ready for the
pistons to be fitted. Block number is 3970010.

There is a down side, when I had the cylinder wall thickness sonic tested. The wall
thickness got as low as .064 inches, but at least it's not on the thrust face. You can
see the results below.
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SonicTest01_800x600.jpg (94.29 KiB) Viewed 1308 times

On the plus side is I have gone over the block on the outside (maybe inside, can't remember)
with an abrasive and smoothed out the casting roughness.
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THIS IS NOT THE ACTUAL BLOCK, BUT WOULD LOOK VERY SIMILAR.
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FP01_BlockSmoothing_0227.jpg (129.7 KiB) Viewed 1308 times

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Where are you located???
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[Slayer]

Interesting. Thanks for the offer.
Two points. 1) Being bored .060 means there is no room for further work. 2) I don't know what the wall thickness should be but .064 sounds a bit thin.

I know these engines are 'old' and finding a block that has not already been bored is unlikely. I'd like to stay no more than .030 over so if needed I can go to .060 over at some point in the future.

I'm in the Greater Phoenix area. Yep, Arizona. (Get me out of here) Naturally I'd like to buy local. Shipping costs are already a major concern.

Once I start hitting the shows and swap meets here there is a good chance somebody will have what I need or know a place to get one from.
Craigslist is full of danger and I'm not going there.

[Indycars]

I understand fully. That's why I went with a new Dart SHP block. If you are going to do more
than the basics like line bore the main, true the deck and hone with deck plate, then you
are almost at the cost of a new much stronger Dart block. Beside it's way to far.

You might check with some machine shops. They have a spare once in awhile. Sometimes
people can't pay, so the machine ends up with a block that ready for assembly.

[Bill Cleveland]

A network is something I don't have but will work on establishing.

You do have one, but you just aren't aware of it. The guys in your apartment complex are part of it. The guy at the auto parts store behind the counter is a part of it. Those are the kinds of people who can help you find stuff, because they know a guy, who knows another guy, etc.

[Loose Ctrl]

I am in a bit of the same situation. I keep an eye out for my dream engines. The ones I want for my T are the Kaiser Frasier supercharged continental flathead inline six. Or the standard Continental flathead six found in the AMC, Jeep, and Willys vehicles in the 50's and 60's. I recently found a possible rebuildable engine, but the seller wants $1000. It's worth maybe $150. Many problems with cracking between the cylinders and between the valve seat areas to give $1000 for a possible rebuild.

Now you're wondering why I am spouting off in your thread about my dream engine. Well, research. That's how I know what to look for. Do a lot of research. Write down notes. Take drives into remote areas and look for junker cars. Stop in and ask,"Hey, ya gotta spare SBC you're willing to part with?" As others have said, make friends with auto parts houses. Try to find the ones with the older more knowledgeable guys. They are usually at the better places like Napa and Car Quest or independent parts houses. Scrapers are another good resource. I mean the guys that gather scrap to haul to the scrap metal dealers. An SBC won't bring but about $25 at the scrap dealer or less. They know that and will wheel and deal on engines they find. I got a BBF for $40. It turned out to be a really good complete 460 and one that is sought after by muscle car guys. I'm not really a big block guy and passed the engine on for the princely sum of $450. Even if your after an SBC, keep an eye out for other engines and parts. You help another guy find his part, and he may help you find your part. You scratch mine, I'll scratch yours kinda deal. Find out where the local car shows are. I'm talking the small gatherings at the local choke and pukes. The ones with the last five to ten guys from the old car clubs of the 80's. Strike up conversations and talk about engines. Then mention you're looking for one. Your imagination is really the only limit. Around here, guys are asking $1000 for the running engine they pulled from their 80's or 90's GM pick up. It's a real chore to find decent priced serviceable engines here. Sometimes, it's cheaper to buy a complete vehicle, part it out, and keep the driveline.

[Bruce Pickett]

Interesting. Thanks for the offer.
Two points. 1) Being bored .060 means there is no room for further work. 2) I don't know what the wall thickness should be but .064 sounds a bit thin.

I know these engines are 'old' and finding a block that has not already been bored is unlikely. I'd like to stay no more than .030 over so if needed I can go to .060 over at some point in the future.

I'm in the Greater Phoenix area. Yep, Arizona. (Get me out of here) Naturally I'd like to buy local. Shipping costs are already a major concern.

Once I start hitting the shows and swap meets here there is a good chance somebody will have what I need or know a place to get one from.
Craigslist is full of danger and I'm not going there.

Putting in sleeves is better tha BUYING a new block. Specs drive the desire or needs.

[Slayer]

Putting in sleeves is better tha BUYING a new block. Specs drive the desire or needs.

Thought about sleeves. As I'm researching I'm finding things I don't like. Example; The SBC suffers from sometimes very bad core sift to the point that even a 030 over bore is too much. Every SBC block needs to be sonic tested for wall thickness, even if has never been touched.

My idea of using a BMW V10 is actually looking better all the time.

I have a spare Nissan V6 that would fit pretty good... and at no cost other than a freshen up.

This is one reason I don't really want to buy a frame with mounts.