Trailer - Gotta Have Upgrades

[Ron Pope]

Ron:
-After a conversation with Bill Darr, at the Nats, I am prestty focused on a 20' rig. So thanks Ron, but I will pass on your offer.

No problem, sold it Monday morning. Now I am in the same boat as you finding the right new trailer. So many options, weight ratings on axles, it goes on and on.

[Rolla Hessel]

Congrats on the quick sell Ron, must have sold it too cheap ..

Another thing that I thought of regarding upgrades is the tires. MOST trailer companies have upgrades available and I recommend going to the better tire, with a heavier rating. Until this year, after going to 10 Ply tires, we have blown at least one a year. Yes, we run the right pressures for the load, etc, etc, etc, but continued to blow tires. Also recommend the V nose as it will help on the fuel economy. You might want to have them add the electric for an AC unit in the roof, even if you do not start out with one..

Saw the recommendations for 110 and I would have them at both ends of the trailer. Again, cheaper to do it up front when they are building it. Get the jacks for the back of it so you can drop them down, when unhooked, and still drive in and out without the trailer jumping up on you. IF you want to splurge, get the electric jack on the tongue, as the trailer get heavier with two cars in them.. Beside the top vents there are vents that you can put on oppisite sides of the trailer down loca and they help take fumes out as you are travelling, plus rain is not an issue. One last thought, depending on your car and your height, you might want to drop it down about 4-6 inches.. Ask LEE, it does make a difference in how they tow.

Good Luck!!

[Krovette]

4500lbs. There is a ball hitch mounted inside the cabinet to attach the winch to and the power wires and remote control plug into it.

[rbsWELDER]

Congrats on the quick sell Ron, must have sold it too cheap ..

One last thought, depending on your car and your height, you might want to drop it down about 4-6 inches.. Ask LEE, it does make a difference in how they tow.

Good Luck!!

Rolla/Lee,

What are we dropping down 4 to 6 inches?

Thanks,

[Rolla Hessel]

On the trailer that Lee bought from me, I reduced the height of the trailer walls by about 6 inches. This made the inside about 6 ft. and made less wind resistance overall when towing it. When i bought the new one, due to the length, the owner of the trailer shope recommended I stay with the normal size as most people hauling cars are not looking for a 32Ft. trailer ..

[Lee in KC]

Oh yeah... big help with the 6" less height!! I'm pulling my trailer with a Ford Explorer Sport-Trac with a 4.6 V8. The lower profile of the trailer really lowers the wind resistance. Also it's only a 16' box. If I were to order a new trailer, it would be exactly what I bought from Rolla.

[Steve Stock]

Lee, what is the inside width of the enclosed trailer you have? I'm looking too and have 80" of rear tires
Also, is it a drop down ramp door?

[Krovette]

Hey guys -

Don't forget the stabalizer bar for the hitch this will make a big difference in the sway of the trailer when you are towing.

Lollie

[Lee in KC]

Steve, IIRC my trailer is 96" inside width. When I had my bigger tires on my car was 84" wide. No problem getting it through the door. I have the drop-down ramp door with what I think is called a "beaver-tail." It''s a flip-over piece the width of the door and about a foot front-to-back, and it forms a transition from the ground onto the ramp. I also have a "dove-tail," which is the transition ramp from the flat floor onto the door ramp. Even with that, I have to crank up the nose of the trailer for my oil pan to clear the edge of the ramp. I only have 3-1/2" pan clearance!

[Lugnut]

Mark,

Another feature you "might" want to consider is bright white lights at the top corners of the trailer and maybe "curb feelers" up there as well for errant motel overhangs!!! Don't ask me how I know this.

Lugnut