Measuring For New Axles From Moser Engineering

[Indycars]

During my trip to Mountain Home Arkansas, I lost the right rear axle. It came out about
9 inches before I got the car to stop. I was coming down a hill, going into a left hand turn
when it happened. I don't want this to ever happen again, so I ordered new axles.

I ordered my new axles from Moser Engineering in Indiana. I talked to the major three
companies, Strange Engineering, Mark Williams and Moser Engineering. Don't remember
the exact cost but in was approximately $550 for axles, retainer plate, retainer plate studs,
wheel studs, bearings and bearing retainers. The retainer plates are a horse shoe shape, so
they can be removed at anytime and are not on the shaft when the bearing is pressed on.....
see pic below.

AxleRetainerPlate.jpg (17.12 KiB) Viewed 210 times

My bolt circle is 5 inch, but I'm also having the flanges drilled for 4-1/2 inch so I will have
some options down the road if I want to change wheels. I think the 4-1/2 is one of the more
popular BCs.

Bolt Circle -If you do not know the bolt circle (P value) of a 5-bolt application, measure the
center-to-center distance (Q) between two adjacent wheel studs and reference the table below.

axorder1.jpg (3.8 KiB) Viewed 209 times

4-1/2” B.C. = 2.645” normal later Ford pattern
4-3/4” B.C. = 2.792” normal Chevrolet pattern
5” B.C. = 2.939” normal older Olds-Pontiac
5-1/2” B.C. = 3.233” normal early Ford and T/F wheel pattern

To get my measurements from my axles I used a magnetic level and used it as one reference
by sticking it to the end of the axle, spline end. Below you can see all the tools that I needed
to make my measurements. My Moser order form is shown below.

MoserAxleOrder_RMiller.jpg (129.47 KiB) Viewed 210 times

FP01_AxleFullView_6312.jpg (54.39 KiB) Viewed 210 times

[Indycars]

Received my new Moser Engineering axles yesterday and got started with the
installation. First I had to pull the old axles out, so off come the wheels and
brake drums. To remove the brake drums I had to back off the adjuster about
10 clicks.

Before I could remove the axles the axle retainer had to be unbolted by removing
the 4 nuts from the T-Bolts.

FP02_RetainerPlateRemoval_6321.jpg (79.78 KiB) Viewed 184 times

Next I installed the adapter for the axle puller.

FP02_AxlePullerAdapter_6322.jpg (82.79 KiB) Viewed 184 times

Install the puller (slide hammer) and knock the axles out. It's easy now that they
have been out several times in the last month.

FP02_AxlePuller_6323.jpg (94.62 KiB) Viewed 184 times

The axle bearing this time has an o-ring in the outer race to help seal the rear end
fluid from leaking out. I left the seals in the axle housing as this will provide a
second sealing surface to stop any fluid from escaping.

The axle retainer is slightly wider, that works for me, I don't want the axle coming
out ever again. It's holding force is determined by the amount of interference fit or
how much force is required to press the retainer on.

FP02_AxleBearingAndRetainer_6327.jpg (66.96 KiB) Viewed 184 times

It's not possible to just push the axles in by hand, I had to tap them in using a
piece of wood and 2 lb hammer.

The splines on the new axles are much longer, as long as they fit the length is
not terribly important.

FP02_AxleSplineCompare_6329.jpg (30.54 KiB) Viewed 184 times

[Indycars]

Never had this happen before. When tightening the nuts for the axle retainer it
spit the lock washer out. When the nut started to free up, I thought the stud was
stripping until the washer fell out on the floor. I had another one in inventory, so
I just replaced it with another washer. Problem solved !

FP02_LockWasherBad_6332.jpg (29.58 KiB) Viewed 184 times

The axle retainers are horse shoe shaped now, makes it easier to remove and
install them.

FP02_AxleRetainerPlates-New_6331.jpg (40.75 KiB) Viewed 184 times

It show how the brake drum is slightly out from the backing plate. This is due
to my measurements from the step in the axle where the bearing stops against
and the axle flange. My track width just grew about 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch per side.

FP02_BrakeDrumDistance_6335.jpg (81.11 KiB) Viewed 184 times

[Rolla Hessel]

Hey Rick, scrap the lock washers and use an all metal lock nut. Much more dependable and predictable torque achieved.

[Indycars]

Hey Rick, scrap the lock washers and use an all metal lock nut. Much more dependable and predictable torque achieved.

Will do the next time I go into the rear end which might be this winter. The OEM
nuts were an all metal lock nut, but they were not locking like new ones, so I put them in
my fastener bin for possible later use on something.

Want to fix a problem with the "Traction Lock" system. It locks too hard and makes the
car push going into a corner then it snaps loose and makes the car twitch sides ways as
the clutches slip. I understand that they have different spring rates for the clutch pack.
The car is just too light for a standard setup in a 3500-4500 lb car.