As I mentioned in Part 3, getting the Tremec up on top of the cross member (even w/the dropout center removed) took quite a while w/many frustrating moments. I had to do this w/the bell housing & flywheel off least the input shaft prevent a steep enough angle to come up w/the transmission jack. I put in a dowel pin at 12 o'clock to hang the 40 lb. flywheel & get the bolts started; that was a 'fun' exercise for me w/the crank being a little bit overhead. Seems like this stuff used to be a little easier; it sure ain't anymore, for sure!
Next came the bell housing & that one in the pics is a Lakewood Scattershield type that weighs almost as much as the flywheel. But, the worst part about putting it on is the fact that my frame is not the usual 19" width for T's, it's 18 3/8's" due to the round chromoly frame tubing I guess. That makes it necessary to do a 'funny little twist' as the bolt hole ears/starter housing bubble on R. side have to clear the inside frame rails. Then it seemed like a mile to push that housing up & over the flywheel & locate the 12 o'clock dowel pin. I finally got all that done in time to remember a saying by my friend Dan Evans who owned Uncle Daniel's Old Car Factory in Dallas during the 1980's. When he used to hit difficult bumps in the road of building rods he would always tell me; "Fun with old cars!"
So, this takes everything back to Saturday morning a week ago. Now it was time to see if I could stab this in by myself. After all, I was able to do it easily w/my old Borg-Warner T-10. But, it was a 10 spline input & the Tremec is a 26 spline input which I suspected might be more challenging; I didn't realize how correct my suspicion was until I started. One of my friends came over after he got off work at the local NAPA store & we worked for over an hour w/no success. We got it to within an inch of going in but, no further.
I finally called my brother Monday evening & he was able to come over and see what he might suggest since he's done a lot more of these. That was the best thing I did because we finally got it in within an hour. The following pics were taken yesterday morning.
I still had to cut some of the bottom bolt holes off for clearance over the back cross piece. The upward curved cutout is where I've cut out some. I still have more to go because that is resting on the cross piece which is welded into the K member. That's got to have a lot of clearance because of the flex in this frame. I'll start on that tomorrow. It's gonna be fun since there's not much room for getting die grinders w/cut off wheels in those small areas.
Here's a shot from the R. side front.
Drivers side rear view.
Once I get the clearance ground out on the tail shaft I'll be able to mount the dropout cross member in place & make the rear motor mount support. I made the one for the T-10 out of a piece of tire tread.
There's not enough space for the 3 remaining pics, so I'll post this & immediately follow w/the last 3 on the next post. John
Re: Dropout Crossmember For My Tremec 5 Speed Part 4
- John Eplen
- Junior BucketHead

- Posts: 43
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- Handle: T-Pilot with Pups
- John Eplen
- Junior BucketHead

- Posts: 43
- Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 1:22 pm
- Handle: T-Pilot with Pups
Re: Dropout Crossmember For My Tremec 5 Speed Part 4 Last 3
I had already been talking to Inland Truck Parts (ITP) in Austin about making the new, shorter drive shaft plus they also had the C-6, 31 spline yoke that the Tremec output shaft requires. I could not do the measurements they required until the Tremec was mounted in it's resting place. When I called w/the measurements they said that I would have to bring the old drive shaft in since they would need the original rear Jag drive shaft flange to correctly balance the new drive shaft. Off to Austin I went, not arriving until 1:15 in the afternoon. They had already told me that it would take a couple of days to make the new shaft & that kinda hurt since each round trip to Austin from Kingsland it about a $50.00 gas tab. Once I met Darrin, the guy in charge we started talking & I found out his brother is also an orchestra/band director in Austin just as I was in Richardson. Before I knew it he said that he would be able to make the new shaft while I waited in their rec room. And, that he did w/me out the door by 4:45.
So, I started on polishing the yoke l& shaft Tuesday morning along w/trying to find a chrome plating firm. Here's 2 pics of the yoke/shaft as I finished Saturday, they are ready for the plating in San Antonio to do his magic. The yoke is actually a Spicer as are the special U-joints which I will mention & show a pic of after the following pic. This last pic is of the fairly new (last 5 years) Spicer 'greaseless' U-joints. Darrin said that the regular grease fitting type U-joints were just a little bit stronger than those of other companies. But, the new 'greaseless' type is the strongest product they have. They are loaded w/synthetic grease (I'm guessing a Mobil 1 product) & have those white plastic rings that, when compressed during installation, seal to the point that the U-joint can be dropped in a bucket of water w/out any leaks. I'm looking forward to not having to grease the drive shaft anymore. I'm also planning on replacing all 4 U-joints on the Jag IRS w/this type. I've already painted these w/the red candy just as has been done on all the U-joints.
So, I started on polishing the yoke l& shaft Tuesday morning along w/trying to find a chrome plating firm. Here's 2 pics of the yoke/shaft as I finished Saturday, they are ready for the plating in San Antonio to do his magic. The yoke is actually a Spicer as are the special U-joints which I will mention & show a pic of after the following pic. This last pic is of the fairly new (last 5 years) Spicer 'greaseless' U-joints. Darrin said that the regular grease fitting type U-joints were just a little bit stronger than those of other companies. But, the new 'greaseless' type is the strongest product they have. They are loaded w/synthetic grease (I'm guessing a Mobil 1 product) & have those white plastic rings that, when compressed during installation, seal to the point that the U-joint can be dropped in a bucket of water w/out any leaks. I'm looking forward to not having to grease the drive shaft anymore. I'm also planning on replacing all 4 U-joints on the Jag IRS w/this type. I've already painted these w/the red candy just as has been done on all the U-joints.
- mike wade
- Full Blown BucketHead

- Posts: 5051
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2012 7:52 pm
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Re: Dropout Crossmember For My Tremec 5 Speed Part 4
Mr. Eplen that is some find work under that T Bucket, now when I see you and the pups in Carson City I will lay down to look at that work.........Keep up the good job and you will get it done by June.......Look foward to seeing you again soon........
Mike
Mike
TODAY IS THE OLDEST YOU'VE EVER BEEN, YET THE YOUNGEST YOU'LL EVER BE, SO ENJOY THIS DAY WHILE IT LASTS
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Bill Darr
- Master BucketHead

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Re: Dropout Crossmember For My Tremec 5 Speed Part 4
Man John that is OUT-A site. Some great work there. Looking great. See ya'll real soon bill me xxxxxxxxx
- Bob Lemke
- Full Blown BucketHead

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Re: Dropout Crossmember For My Tremec 5 Speed Part 4
All I can say is another person that likes a clutch, must be as nuts as me.
Bob

